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It was a dark and stormy evening, rapidly turning into the proverbial dark a
It was a dark and stormy evening, rapidly turning into the proverbial dark a
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2023-12-28
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问题
It was a dark and stormy evening, rapidly turning into the proverbial dark and stormy night, and I needed to find a place to stay. I was driving along an Austrian freeway, so I did what I’ve done on any number of previous occasions: I took the near exit and looked for a sign pointing to the nearest gasthof, or inn.
The exit was Gleisdorf, between Graz and the Hungarian border. And off the highway, a couple of kilometers along the road, there it was, a sign at a lefthand turn, pointing up a narrow country road into the dark. The sign read "Gasthof Gruber" — so of course I followed the indication.
Fifteen minutes or so later, I found myself in the village of Markt, at a quaint-looking inn whose windows glowed invitingly and whose balconies were full of flowers. A smiling woman in a floor-length dirndl led me to a comfortable room, equipped with a television and private bath.
I dropped my bags, went back downstairs, and settled into the dining room, which was heated by a big, old-fashioned tiled stove. Soon I was sipping a glass of sturm, a mildly alcoholic, freshly fermented grape juice, and digging in to a bowl of delicious soup. The room, with a full breakfast, cost 30, or about $36, and my dinner, with wine, cost 10.
One of the pleasures of driving in Austria is, in fact, stopping for the night. All parts of the country are studded with family-run country inns that, like the Gasthof Gruber, offer spotless, moderately priced rooms and good, sometimes excellent, food that often features specialties of the region. Room prices average 25 to 35 for a single.
Some inns are clustered in towns or villages along main roadways. But many are deep in the countryside or in mountain hamlets reached by winding lanes.
Standardized green signs bearing the name of a gasthof and the symbols of a bed and crossed knife and fork point the way at many intersections. In popular vacation areas, there may be half a dozen or more such signs stacked on one post or standing next to each other at a turn-off.
In years of driving regularly in Austria, I have rarely booked a room in advance, trusting always that I will find a pleasant place to stay by following the signs. I’ve rarely been disappointed, and often my night in a gasthof has proved such an enjoyable oasis between bouts of long-distance driving that I found it difficult to leave in the morning and get back on the road.
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答案
那是一个风雨交加的黄昏,天很快黑下来,成了大家都熟悉的那种风雨交加的黑夜。我需要找个地方停下来歇息。我当时正开着车行驶在奥地利的一条公路上。于是我就仿照以前多次的做法,在不远的一个出口下了公路,看有没有路标指示最近的旅店。他们管旅店叫“盖斯霍夫”。
那出口名叫格累斯朵夫,位于格拉兹和匈牙利边境之间。下了公路之后,又开了大约两公里,在向左拐弯的地方,果然有一个路标,指向一条狭窄的乡间小路,远处是一片漆黑。那路标上写着“格鲁伯旅店”——我当然就顺着路标指的方向驶去。
大约过了一刻钟,我来到马科特村,停在一家古色古香的旅店门前。那旅店的窗户透出诱人的灯光,阳台上摆满了花。一个女人笑容满面,身穿落地长裙,把我领到一间舒适的屋子里,屋里有电视,还有专用的卫生间。
我放下行李,回到楼下,在餐厅里坐下。那里有一个老式镶瓷砖的大火炉,烧得屋里暖洋洋的。不一会儿,我就端着一杯斯托姆酒品尝起来。这是一种新酿制的低度葡萄酒。接着我又喝了一碗味道鲜美的汤。我的房间,加上全套的早餐,一共花了30欧元,合36美元。我那顿晚饭,连酒在内,共花了10欧元。
其实,在奥地利开车旅行,乐趣之一就是停下来过夜。全国各地到处都有家庭经营的乡间旅店,就像格鲁伯旅店那样,房间一尘不染,价格适中,饭菜可口,有时极好,往往带有地方风味。一个单人房间的租金平均25至35欧元。
有些旅店集中在主要公路沿线的村镇里。也有许多旅店远在乡间,或地处山村,需要顺着蜿蜒的车道行驶才能到达。
在许多交叉路口可以看到标准化的绿色路标,上面写着一家旅店的名字,画着一张床和交叉的刀叉组成的标记,指引道路。在游人众多的度假区,会在岔路口看到五六个甚至更多上面说的那种路标钉在同一根柱子上,或并排站在那里。
几年来,我经常在奥地利驾车旅行,很少预定房间,从不怀疑只要跟着路标走,准能找到一个好地方过夜。我还没怎么失望过,而且我常感到在旅店过夜的确是长途驾车途中最愉快的歇息,弄得我第二天早上都舍不得离开,不愿重新上路了。
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