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Surfing is something people often get hooked on after trying it a few times.
Surfing is something people often get hooked on after trying it a few times.
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2023-10-17
15
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Surfing is something people often get hooked on after trying it a few times. For many suffers it is much more than a hobby—they would probably agree with the American professional suffer Kelly Slater when he said, “Once you ’re in, you’ re in. There * s no getting out. "
“Surfing”, of course, refers to riding on ocean waves using a surfboard. Many suffers stand up on their boards, which requires good balance and is therefore difficult for most beginners to learn, but some lie down and "bodyboard".
The history of surfing probably began with the Polynesian people of the Pacific Islands. One of the first white people to see anyone surfing was the British explorer Captain Cook, when his ship arrived in Hawaii in 1778. He watched many Hawaiians riding waves on large pieces of wood, and reported that, "Surfing seems to give them a feeling of great pleasure. "
When surfing started to become very popular in the United States in the 1950s and 60s, suffers used large wooden boards (often more than three metres long) that were quite heavy. Boards today are shorter and also much lighter, because they are made of artificial materials instead of wood.
For anyone who wants to try surfing, the only essentials are waves and a board. There are a few other things, however, that most surfers find important: a cord to attach one of their ankles to the board and therefore stop it from being carried a long way away when they fall off; wax, which they put on the surface of the board to help their feet stick to it; and a wetsuit to help them keep warm in cold water. The south-west of England is an example of a place where surfers usually need wetsuits, even in summer.
Surfing has been a professional sport for many years and the very best surfers are able to make a living from it. Most of the best professional surfers in the last 30 years, both men and women, have been American or Australian, but surfers from Brazil, Peru and South Africa have also won important competitions. [br] What do surfers use wax for?
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答案
To help their feet stick to the board
解析
(倒数第二段倒数第二句提到“在冲浪板的表面涂蜡是为了将双脚固定住。”)
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