[originaltext] Wind and Sea Waves

Wind and Sea Waves
       If you’ve ever stood on the shore of the ocean, you’ve seen wave after wave move toward you. Each comes up to the shore, breaks, and then falls back. Is there a giant machine far out at sea that creates this movement? Not at all — but there is one factor which has been hard at work. It is the wind which makes the movement we call waves. This movement continues until it runs into something, like the shore. The waves that reach the shoreline may have travelled thousands of miles.
      As a wave approaches the shore, it slows down. The water becomes more shallow. The sea bottom drags on the wave. The tops of waves crowd together. When they are too close for the wave to form properly, the wave breaks. The top of the wave spills over, and the water pushes forward onto the beach